I am a lefty that is leaving ALOT of solid pocket 7 pins and once in awhile a 10 pin. What can I do to fix this? It is costing me big time.

Most likely it is the drilling layouts not matching your track/PAP...

Dannyracer
Hong Kong

I am not sure all the way. I never really look for the 4 pin. I just know I am hitting the pocket and leaving alot of 7 pins. Some ringing some solid.

I am a lefty.

Have you thought about bowling right handed? lol, just kidding...

I agree with brett. Watch the 4 pin, because the entry angle being a bit "off" is almost always the cause of corner pins. Of course it can be adjusted in many ways - speed, angle of attack, ball layouts, etc.

Jeff

First,how is the ball supposed to hit the pins?The ball should enter the pocket
so that it strikes the 3 on its left-hand third(for right-handers).This forces
the 3 into the 6 at an angle so the 6 comes off the side-board into the 10.
If you are hitting too much of the 3(closer to the center of the pin),the 3 sends
the 6 into the side-board at an angle that sends it around the 10.This is a
"half-pocket 10 pin." The half-pocket 10 is when the ball looks like makes
contact with the headpin and 3 at the same time.It doesn't,but it will look that
way because of the angle at which it enters the pocket.You are getting to much
of the 3 with the ball,so you will need to make a slight adjustment to carry it out.
You can tighten your line,adjust everything about a board-either right with
your feet or left with your target,increase your hook slightly.The correct move
will be the one to get the ball to strike the 3 on the left third of the pin.

The ringing tens.
First there is one where the 6 shoots up and wraps around the neck of the 10.
This usually says,that there is an entry angle problem.The ball is entering the
pocket at an angle that causes the 6 to fly out and up toward the neck of the 10.This happens because the ball is pushing the 3 too far back so the chain
reaction causes this result.
The fixes are easy.Either soften up the entry angle with your hand or by
tightening your line and firming up your speed,moving left and softening up
your speed,or change to a ball that has a similar front end movement but
less aggressive on the backend.

Second ringing 10.When the 6 shoots around the middle of the 10,it is still
called a ringing 10,but the cause and solution are different.The cause is
similar and the solutions are also,but in this case,the preferable option
is to slow the ball down.You just need give it a split second more reaction
time and a softer hit.

Third ringing 10.There is an occasional 10 leave where the 6 shoots around
the base of the 10.There is nothing you can do about it.Normally,this is telling
you the 3 may be of spot,so check the pin placements.

The soft 10. The ball enters the pocket either fairly flush or half-pocket and the 6 just falls falls in the gutter next to the 10.Generally,this tells you that you
have hold in the middle part of the lane and you are either too fast or too deep
with the ball you have to use it.Since this hold always creates high scores
you want to be able to take advantage of it.
There are at least three adjustments you can make.If you are a hard thrower,
slow the ball down and send it a little right to open up the lane.You want
your feet to be far enough outside so you have "tug" area inside.Second:make
sure that the ball doesn't start on the oil and stay on the oil.Hold only helps
if you are in a position to use it to set up your shot when needed.
Third:Check the equipment you are using.This is the time to use larger flaring balls.The swing area outside and hold area inside means the lanes are wide
open so you will want the ball that can produce the most strikes.Always make
physical adjustments first.Changing balls should always be last.

The first rule of good scoring is "Keep the pins low on the deck"When pins fly,
you want them flying around at the height that is equal to the fattest part of
the pins when they are standing.
When a pin flies around mid-pin high,you have a better chance of that pin hitting something else.If the pins you have knocked down are rolling around on the pindeck,they have a better chance to hit something.
When all of the pin action is up toward the neck of pins or higher your chances
of carrying are less.

One last word.The "messenger strike".This may look cool,and you may carry
one of these hits,we don't play for these.It is the sign of a mistake that went right.In order to get a messenger(the head pin)to go back across the lane to the 10,you have the ball coming in late (light).
Unless you are a cranker who plays for light pocket hits"and is going to pay
the price in a split combo".You need to slow your ball speed down a little to
get the shot into the strike area.


Let's work on the four pin.The "solid" four is telling us that our ball is finishing too hard
(too much angle and drive).With balls in the old school days (plastic,rubber,urethane) the
adjustment was easy,move feet one or two boards left and keep same target and execution.
With the nuclear powered balls today this is not enough.Especially when the backends are
always so fresh.Now we should move three to five boards left and two to three boards on
the lanes to make the ball deflect enough to carry the four pin.You may try a one to two
board move,and it might work for one frame,but you may leave a four-six split.You have
to adjust ahead of the need,not a frame or to late.

The blower seven pin.The five pin is supposed to take out the seven pin,but it just misses
and goes to the side board.This is because of too much deflection.Solution should be,just
keep the same ball speed,rev rate,etc.) and move your feet one board right.This will
get your shot into the pocket at the right angle so the deflection will not only carry
the seven but also give you better deflection angle for flush pocket hits as well.