This ball has a 75x40 4 1/2"(PAP 5" over 1" Up):



It is a pretty basic stack, but this was darn close to the layout on my first GT1 that I shot the first 300 with. I modified the SR2 layout slightly due to the stronger cover. I have the GT1 and SX1 at 75x40 4 1/4". The upcoming video of this ball will have a comparison of the 3.

Hello Justin, I have been reading up on the dual angle and becoming quite intregued by it all. I have have a good understanding of what all the angles do to the reaction of a ball. The Pin to PAP is what is keeping me in the fog a little. I notice you keep your angles fairly similar most of the time, yet change the Pin to PAP slightly once in a while. That is where I am unclear, can you clear that up for me please? I do need to find my PAP first and formost then I plan to start laying out my own equipment. I just want to know 100% where I need to be. I am about 90% now.

I appreciate it! Good bowling as of late as well, had my first Motiv 300 & 800 (811) last week with the TX1, and am looking forward to more.

Thanks
RM

You will, over time, find angle sums that match well to your game.

The pin to PAP impacts the final drilled differential of the ball. In symmetrical balls this directly impacts the amount of flare, and the resulting amount of friction the ball creates. 3 3/8 is straight leverage, and the strongest placement. Move closer or further to the PAP and the flare reduces. Generally, more flare equates to an earlier and smoother reaction. When you get within 2" of the PAP you have a very rolly and not too aggressive reaction because you are promoting early energy bleed. 4+ pins generally promote length and energy conservation, resulting in more aggressive backend reaction. Once you get past 5.75" then you generally get into length and control, unless the starting diff is .060 or higher. Weight hole placement also has a very significant impact on the drilled diff, and reaction. The gradient line is a good guide to this.



In dual the dual angle system, the Drilling angle determines the length, the VAL angle determines how quickly the ball reacts to friction. Being a hand dominant player, I usually prefer higher angle sums, as this helps me control the ball reaction by promoting a longer, smoother reaction to friction.








In my opinion this is the current day bowling formula(I need to go to college and take calculus so I can prove or disprove this):

(A/R)-(Fb+Ft)=S

A=Energy created by your approach.
R=% of energy transferred to the ball in your release(this is where many bowlers need help).
Fb=Friction created by the ball.
Ft=Total Friction created by the playing surface.
S=Striking percentage.



P.S. You not only need to know your PAP, but your track diameter as well. Someone with an 8" track diameter and someone with a 13" track diameter can have the same PAP, but the 13" track diameter will create significantly more friction, even with the same layout, resulting in a different reaction.

Thank you very much for the info, that clears a lot on what i need to do to start to lay out my equipment. I am a very similar in style as you from what i have seen in your vid. Maybe not AS much hand but close. SO i will get my PAP and track diameter figured out then go from there.

I am a fan of length and energy conservation usually with my style of play (depending on the ball) so I will mess around with some things. I can see how in a ball like the TR2 and its love and need for oil, the team event in the USBC Open immediatly comes to mind. It seems you would want to tame the pin back (3-4" or 5"+) to a more mid lane type roll, as this ball already responds to friction in a blink of an eye you would want to control this move on a sensitive shot such as that. Am I on the rigt track by saying that?

Again I apprecitae the info and will keep you posted on my findings with the new Motiv stuff I have coming...

RM